What Is an Izakaya?
An izakaya (居酒屋) is somewhere between a pub, a tapas bar, and a casual restaurant. The word literally combines the characters for "to stay" and "sake shop" — and that tells you everything. These are places to settle in, order drinks and small dishes over several hours, and generally decompress from the workday. They are the social backbone of Japanese working life, and as an expat, becoming a regular at a good izakaya is one of the fastest ways to feel at home.
Types of Izakayas
Chain Izakayas
Places like Torikizoku, Watami, Shirokiya, and Uotami are large chains with picture menus, English-friendly apps, and tablet ordering. They're consistent, affordable, and great for your first experiences. Don't let anyone tell you they're "not authentic" — millions of Japanese people eat there every week.
Yakitori-ya
A subset of izakaya focused on grilled chicken skewers (and often other meats and vegetables). The smoke, the counter seating, the open grill — these are quintessential Japan. Order by the skewer or by the set (盛り合わせ / moriawase).
Regional and Independent Izakayas
Every neighborhood has a mom-and-pop izakaya — often identifiable by a red lantern (赤ちょうちん / aka chouchin) outside. These may have no English menu, but a phone with a translation app and a willingness to point and smile gets you far.
How to Order: The Basics
- You'll often be asked for a drinks order immediately. Having a first drink ready (beer / nama biiru is always safe) speeds things along.
- Food is ordered in rounds, not all at once. Order a few dishes, eat, then order more as the night progresses.
- Otōshi (お通し) — you'll receive a small, pre-set snack automatically when seated. This is a cover charge equivalent (¥300–¥600); it's normal and not optional.
- To get the server's attention, say "sumimasen!" (excuse me). Don't wave aggressively or snap fingers.
- To ask for the bill: "okaikei onegaishimasu" or simply mime writing on your palm.
What to Order
| Dish | What It Is | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Karaage (唐揚げ) | Japanese fried chicken | Almost always excellent; safe crowd-pleaser |
| Edamame (枝豆) | Salted boiled soybeans | Standard first order; great with beer |
| Gyoza (餃子) | Pan-fried dumplings | Usually pork and cabbage; crispy bottom |
| Agedashi tofu | Lightly fried tofu in dashi broth | Excellent vegetarian-friendly option |
| Sashimi moriawase | Assorted raw fish platter | Quality varies; good izakayas do it well |
| Hiyayakko | Cold tofu with toppings | Light, refreshing, cheap |
Drinks to Know
- Nama biiru — draft beer; the default opener
- Highball (ハイボール) — whisky and soda; ubiquitous and refreshing
- Chu-hi (チューハイ) — shochu with soda and fruit flavoring; low-cost, many flavors
- Umeshu — plum wine; sweet, great for those who don't love beer
- Nomihodai (飲み放題) — all-you-can-drink course, typically ¥1,500–¥2,500 for 90–120 minutes
Budget Guide
A solid izakaya evening — drinks, multiple dishes, a couple of hours — typically runs ¥2,500–¥5,000 per person. Chain izakayas sit at the lower end; independent spots with premium ingredients at the higher end. Nomihodai packages can stretch your budget further if you're a heavy drinker.
The Unwritten Rule
The izakaya is a place to relax, not rush. Nobody is going to hurry you out. Order slowly, talk, and let the evening unfold at its own pace. That's the whole point.